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Why Should I Mulch?Weed growth in and around your ornamental borders and gardens can be a
major problem. Mulching is a very effective way to help prevent weeds for
various reasons such as excluding light from the soil surface, by not giving
young weeds a firm material to build a root system in, etc. As well as
preventing weed growth, organic mulches can help add nutrients to your soil
as they decay. A quality fabric weed barrier is often used between the soil
and mulch to further inhibit weed growth while allowing water and nutrients
into the soil. A layer of 2-4 inches is recommended for a good effective
covering, depending upon preference and type of mulch used. Done right,
mulching can eliminate or greatly reduce trimming and weed eating in your
lawn or garden, as well as provide a very attractive ground covering.
How Do I Mulch?The area should be cleared of all weeds, leaves and grass. If you are
preparing an area on an established lawn, make sure you strip the sod
completely. Edge around the entire border of your landscape area, which is
easily done with a flat shovel or a power edger. If you are replenishing the
mulch on an existing mulched area, be sure to loosen up the old mulch. Using
your hands to spread the mulch produces the best results. Use a thickness of
2 to 4 inches, not allowing the mulch to make direct contact with plants.
This avoids disease problems. Also, keep it from contacting nearby wooden
structures in case of termites. When finished, the mulch should be watered
down to put moisture in it and to help settle it into place. Before You Mulch:Mulch is the icing to the cake, there is some work to be done before you spread your mulch. Follow the steps below to achieve great results.
Mulch Facts:Mulch Is More Than DecorativeMulch retains moisture, retards weeds, provides nutrients, controls erosion and insulates the soil protecting plants from extreme temperature variations. Too Much Mulch Is HarmfulMulch should be applied 2-4 inches thick to provide blanket after settling . Building a volcano around a tree is an example of excessive mulching and it will cause more harm than good. It should never be placed against the bark of your woody plants, such as bushes and trees, it could cause disease. Mulches, especially hardwood mulch, compacts after a few rains. This compaction causes a dry condition under the mulch, which starves the soil and plants of air and water, promoting the growth of fungus and can cause disease to your plants. We recommend occasionally aerating or cultivating to reduce compaction. Mulch Can Be ToxicToxic mulch, also known as “sour mulch” mainly occurs with hardwood bark mulches. This occurs when a mulch producer improperly composts the mulch. Methane, alcohol, ammonia and hydrogen sulfide gases will build to toxic levels due to the lack of oxygen and too much moisture. “Sour Mulch” can kill your plants! Be aware and recognize it, the mulch will have a vinegar or ammonia smell. If the mulch has already been applied, water the mulch thoroughly. All Mulches Are Not The SameThere are many mulch producers across the country and around the world.
Each sources their own raw materials and implements their own production
methods. Due to these factors, you will find an enormous selection of
mulches across the country. The most common types in the United States are
hardwood bark, cypress, pine and cedar. Hardwood and pine mulches will break
down and release nutrients into your soil. Cypress and cedar mulches break
down extremely slow. Therefore, their benefits are primarily for decorative
use, holding moisture, controlling erosion and retarding weed growth. Pine
bark mulch holds up the longest and is best for your plants and soil. Winterizing With MulchesIowa’s relatively warm days and cold nights, extreme temperature fluctuations and drying winds can wreak havoc with many of our commonly planted perennials. Generally, after the first hard frost, the foliage of most perennials starts to die and wither. There are two philosophies on when to remove the dead foliage. One approach is to immediately remove the dead foliage. Many perennials will suffer no harm as a result, as long as you exercise great care when applying mulch. The other approach is waiting until spring to remove dead foliage. Always remove diseased foliage to discourage the spread of leaf-spot diseases and fungal problems. Dehydration is a common problem when snowless winters occur. A layer of mulch several inches thick helps retain soil moisture. This mulch should be coarse and loose to permit air movement to roots. Root tissues continue to metabolize in the winter and requires oxygen for this process to take place. Reduced soil oxygen level increases the aggressiveness of many soil pathogens. Mulches which pack down should be avoided. Watering at least monthly under dry winter conditions recharges the soil profile with moisture critical to plant survival. Whether you decide to remove dead foliage in the fall or wait
until spring, mulches provide the best protection for your perennials. Many
types of mulches are available, and no matter which you choose, there are a
few guidelines you should follow. Established perennials and bulbs benefit from mulches that are applied after the ground freezes, because mulches don't allow soil temperatures to fluctuate as much throughout the winter. Mulch should not be removed too early in spring or plants will begin to grow too early. Plants located on the south side of a building or wall will emerge sooner than those in other areas, but may be subject to spring frost damage. Some perennials can be damaged by drying winter winds and western sun. Fencing can be used to effectively to protect plantings.
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Mulch Mart
LLC. 600 Hwy 6. P.O. Box 138, Waukee, IA 50263 | 515.978.6852 |
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